Beaching Brewer12.8

The board can NOT be raised by using the Stop Cable through the cockpit sole. The point of attachment of the cable to the board is directly below the cockpit hausepipe when the board is in the down position. As the board is raised the point of attachment is no longer under the hause pipe and is forward of this point believe me I tried when the attachment point of the main board lifting cable broke off 11 years ago on my way to Maine.

Interesting! Why did your raising attachment point break off? Do you feel there is room to 2 part the raising line? Maybe using Dyneema line? Then change the stop line position by moving it forward so it will not vibrate at speed? I have not seen the underbody of the boat yet. Is the slot tapered the same shape as the board? or is it just a rectangular opening? I now have the plan from Ted brewer but it does not show this , just centerboard shape. What is the general clearance between the board and the slot? Thank you for the help. George Myers

The attachment point of the Pennant to the board is a stainless padeye that has a loop welded to a stainless plate that wraps around the end of the board. The stainless loop broke off at the weld points. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of it. I did take a picture of the board lowered out of the boat which I will try to attach. There is NO room for any kind of purchase between the attachment point of the board and the forward end of the trunk. In fact when the board is up it is tooblocked to the forward end of the trunk. I also have Ted Brewers drawings and if you have the drawing of the board you will see that the board is only tapered where is extends out of the boat when down. The upper part of the board is a full 2 1/2 inched wide. I'm not sure of the actual width of the trunk but it is a pretty close fit. I never have much trouble with the board knocking from side to side unless the board is down and we start to motor after sailing and forget to raise the board and there is therefore no side pressure on the board. We then just raise it and it is much easier to raise when motoring forward. I have never had a problem with the stopline vibrating. How can that happen if the board is up and if you are motoring with the board down you should raise it. I don't think there is any way your can change the position of the Cockpit hausepipe or board attachment point to use that to help raise the board. As a safety line to stop the board from lowering too much or for that matter swinging forward in an emergence and damaging the trunk the attachment point should be directly below the hausepipe when the board is in the lower position. When I had the Main lifting pennant changed 2 years ago before we headed to the Bahamas I dove under the boat and had a friend lower the board and when it go into the correct lowered position I knocked on the hull for him to stop lowering. I then was able to tie off the safety line to the correct point and also marked the main pennant to show the correct lowered position. I don't seem to be able to attach the picture.

Thanks for the information. The previous owner (PO) said that the stop line vibrated over 5kn when down and that it thunked thunked when up in heavy seas. Maybe stop line can be relocated forward to get it out of streaming water- you said it will not hoist board anyway.If I make a new board maybe I can make a notch in the board where the hoisting line attaches to allow room for a 2 part line or maybe its not worth it--the PO said it took a large force to hoist the board-is this true? The metal underwater should be Bronze as SS does not due well long term due to lack of oxygen -especially any welds. Now as the board tapers it should also get thinner to maintain the NACA foil shape. And when it gets thinner does the trunk also follow. This may be source of thunk-thunk- if board gets thinner as it tapers down and trunk slot stays same width. Regards and Thanks, George

I have never had a problem with the Stop line vibrating so I can't answer that and don't know the conditions the PO was in. The stop line really shouldn't be relocated as it is in the right position to do the function it was supposed to do. I don't think it would be a good idea to try to put a purchase to raise the board. You don't want to make things any more complicated than need be in a place you really cant get to with out considerable effort hauling the boat and removing the board. The trunk is not tapered where the board tapers but the upper end of the board fitting snugly in the trunk should stop the thunking. I have been in some pretty heavy seas myself and any thunking there might have been I did not detect. The only time I heard or felt anything was when the board was inadvertently down and we were motoring is calm seas. Then I simply raised the board and the thumping stopped. Other friends of mine with Sabers and Tartans with centerboards have the same conditions. I am perfectly happy with my board and the way it functions. I can raise it without undue effort although it does take some effort as far as the "large Effort" reported by the PO I have no why of comparing his subjective remarks with mine. It seems that you are basing a lot of your comments on what a PO has told you and not from your own experience. Perhaps the PO was not using the board properly.

Im thinking that the root of the thuking problem is that the board being tapered and thinner as it goes aft and the slot staying the same width---there is still a lot of pressure in the back part of the slot as the swirling water enters and leaves pushing relentlessly on aft part of board when up.. as the years go by and several millions of pushed--- the board starts to "oval out "arounr the pin-- of course the pin and the bushing start to "oval out" and wear too-this only increases the thunk thunk-- then with board lowered it thunks even more. Im guess but has anyone here fount their pin and bushing "ovaled out"???? thanks , George

---

PS one man on here put padding in aft part of his slot to control this.