Brewer12.8 Centerboard

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8 years 7 months ago #1671 by C. William Eilers, Jr
Replied by C. William Eilers, Jr on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
The attachment point of the Pennant to the board is a stainless padeye that has a loop welded to a stainless plate that wraps around the end of the board. The stainless loop broke off at the weld points. Unfortunately I did not take a picture of it. I did take a picture of the board lowered out of the boat which I will try to attach. There is NO room for any kind of purchase between the attachment point of the board and the forward end of the trunk. In fact when the board is up it is tooblocked to the forward end of the trunk. I also have Ted Brewers drawings and if you have the drawing of the board you will see that the board is only tapered where is extends out of the boat when down. The upper part of the board is a full 2 1/2 inched wide. I'm not sure of the actual width of the trunk but it is a pretty close fit. I never have much trouble with the board knocking from side to side unless the board is down and we start to motor after sailing and forget to raise the board and there is therefore no side pressure on the board. We then just raise it and it is much easier to raise when motoring forward. I have never had a problem with the stopline vibrating. How can that happen if the board is up and if you are motoring with the board down you should raise it. I don't think there is any way your can change the position of the Cockpit hausepipe or board attachment point to use that to help raise the board. As a safety line to stop the board from lowering too much or for that matter swinging forward in an emergence and damaging the trunk the attachment point should be directly below the hausepipe when the board is in the lower position. When I had the Main lifting pennant changed 2 years ago before we headed to the Bahamas I dove under the boat and had a friend lower the board and when it go into the correct lowered position I knocked on the hull for him to stop lowering. I then was able to tie off the safety line to the correct point and also marked the main pennant to show the correct lowered position. I don't seem to be able to attach the picture.

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8 years 7 months ago #1672 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Thanks for the information. The previous owner (PO) said that the stop line vibrated over 5kn when down and that it thunked thunked when up in heavy seas. Maybe stop line can be relocated forward to get it out of streaming water- you said it will not hoist board anyway.If I make a new board maybe I can make a notch in the board where the hoisting line attaches to allow room for a 2 part line or maybe its not worth it--the PO said it took a large force to hoist the board-is this true? The metal underwater should be Bronze as SS does not due well long term due to lack of oxygen -especially any welds. Now as the board tapers it should also get thinner to maintain the NACA foil shape. And when it gets thinner does the trunk also follow. This may be source of thunk-thunk- if board gets thinner as it tapers down and trunk slot stays same width. Regards and Thanks, George

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8 years 7 months ago #1673 by C. William Eilers, Jr
Replied by C. William Eilers, Jr on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
I have never had a problem with the Stop line vibrating so I can't answer that and don't know the conditions the PO was in. The stop line really shouldn't be relocated as it is in the right position to do the function it was supposed to do. I don't think it would be a good idea to try to put a purchase to raise the board. You don't want to make things any more complicated than need be in a place you really cant get to with out considerable effort hauling the boat and removing the board. The trunk is not tapered where the board tapers but the upper end of the board fitting snugly in the trunk should stop the thunking. I have been in some pretty heavy seas myself and any thunking there might have been I did not detect. The only time I heard or felt anything was when the board was inadvertently down and we were motoring is calm seas. Then I simply raised the board and the thumping stopped. Other friends of mine with Sabers and Tartans with centerboards have the same conditions. I am perfectly happy with my board and the way it functions. I can raise it without undue effort although it does take some effort as far as the "large Effort" reported by the PO I have no why of comparing his subjective remarks with mine. It seems that you are basing a lot of your comments on what a PO has told you and not from your own experience. Perhaps the PO was not using the board properly.

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8 years 6 months ago #1682 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Im thinking that the root of the thuking problem is that the board being tapered and thinner as it goes aft and the slot staying the same width---there is still a lot of pressure in the back part of the slot as the swirling water enters and leaves pushing relentlessly on aft part of board when up.. as the years go by and several millions of pushed--- the board starts to "oval out "arounr the pin-- of course the pin and the bushing start to "oval out" and wear too-this only increases the thunk thunk-- then with board lowered it thunks even more. Im guess but has anyone here fount their pin and bushing "ovaled out"???? thanks , George
PS one man on here put padding in aft part of his slot to control this.

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8 years 6 months ago #1704 by Terry Temperly
Replied by Terry Temperly on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
If you want to have a new board fabricated, contact Tony Pocklington in Port Charlotte,FL. He still has the original mold, and just recently made a new board for another Brewer owner.

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8 years 6 months ago #1705 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
That would be great. Thank You! I searched on net for him without success. Do you or the other 12.8 owner know his contacts. Regards , George my email is georgetheleo@hotmail.com

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8 years 6 months ago #1706 by George Chamberlain
Replied by George Chamberlain on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Charlotte Harbor Boat Storage on Google Maps:

maps.google.com/maps?ie=UTF-8&q=Charlott...4BA&ved=0CJMBEPwSMAk

Check out this blog, see the 10th pic from the top:
purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavo...o%20yard-pics-2.html

GAC

He who will not risk cannot win.

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8 years 6 months ago #1708 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Tony Pocklington PH 941/828-0216 info@charlotteharborboatstorage.com

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8 years 6 months ago #1724 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
I have bought a new board from Tony at Charlotte Harbor Boat Storage in Placida FL He has original molds! Costly but "only game in town". What material did you use to pad' board ?? Im thinking of neoprene sheets . and how was yours fastened to hull? Thanks, George

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8 years 6 months ago #1725 by Jack Dexter
Replied by Jack Dexter on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Our pads are fastened to the board, not the trunk. They're made of Starboard and epoxied on and slightly wedge shaped to allow for a tight fit. They work.

If I were doing the job again I'd consider a softer material if I could find one that could be securely fastened to the board.

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8 years 6 months ago #1726 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
OH Oh with boards down -anything attached would upset the NACA foil shape and slow boat down---- I bought new board from tony-cost is $4500 plus installation! hes the only game in town!! After reviewing Ted Brewers drawings --Ft Myers Yt Builders ignored Teds drawings and made there own silly hoisting rig. Now we suffer forever as it cant be changed. IM going to try to glue neoprene sheets inside the slot for a firm fit when board up and maybe some of same at edge of slot where wide point of board contacts edge of slot for close fit when down.

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8 years 6 months ago #1727 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
I have since obtained Ted s original drawings--- and (as he also says) FT Myers Yt Builders ignored Teds drawing regarding hoisting mechanism and devised their own- complete with the stupid "stop line". So its not Teds fault.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Gerry O'Donoghue

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8 years 6 months ago #1728 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
I have heard 3 numbers. 9. 10. and 40.

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8 years 6 months ago #1738 by Matt Davis
Replied by Matt Davis on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
We just purchased a 1990 B44 down in Mexico. She is currently on the hard where we will be doing a considerable refit. I am hoping to get any insight you can offer in terms of the centerboard. We operated it during the sea trial and the board seems to extend and retract as designed. Is there anything that can be inspected while on the hard to ensure everything is OK (attachment points, pivot pin, etc)? The lines look pretty ragged and need to be replaced. Do you know what size/type of lines are appropriate and how to go about connecting and running them through the system?

Thanks in advance for your time,

Matt Davis

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8 years 6 months ago #1739 by Augusto Villalon
Replied by Augusto Villalon on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Hi, I have had no problems with my centerboard for 25 years. Do the following while on the hard. Remove the pin by using a ½ Ratchet wrench to remove plugs on each side. Lift bottom of board to relies pressure and push pin out. Clean and inspect closely for cracks, corrosion, etc. replace if bad. Re-asemble.
Replace the pull line. I used a good spectra halyard type line of 1/.2" make a good double hitch nut below. Check closely the turning block on deck to be sure it runs free. When installed, Hang the boat and slowly drop board so that it is in down position. This position is when the board shoulder is parallel to the lower edge of the keel (about 45 degrees). Mark up on deck that point with a magic marker on the line. Then attach the other line, the limiting line that will not let the board get further at all. This is the line that goes to the cockpit. If you need more help, let me know. Kiko

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8 years 6 months ago #1740 by Matt Davis
Replied by Matt Davis on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Hi Kiko,

Thank you very much for your input. Doesn't sound too bad. The "plugs" on my pin appear to be glassed over. Should I just grind out the glass to access the pin?

Thanks, Matt

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8 years 6 months ago #1741 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Hello brewer centerboard enthusiasts! I just left my boat in Tonys yard. I intend to make a detailed "as-built" of the centerboard cavity. Then I will make a "as-built" of the new centerboard before being installed. I will use the pin as the base line. Then I will compare the two measurement studies . Then I will try to Quote "narrow the gaps" between the board both up and down by using rather hard neoprene pads betwixt the two. Hopefully this will prevent excessive movement and transfer the force of the board to the hull nicely. Suggestions welcome.

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8 years 5 months ago #1743 by George Myers
Replied by George Myers on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Dear SAILAFIN, Im having a new centerboard made as the previous owner removed it because it "made too much noise" . Does your board make any noise? Thanks, George

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8 years 5 months ago #1744 by Augusto Villalon
Replied by Augusto Villalon on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
Yes, under certain circumstances it make some noise. However, this can be remedied by installing some wedges glued to either the board itself or to the inside of the receiver. Where are you located? You may want to consult with Tony Pocklington of Charlotte Harbor Boat Storage (google them)
Good luck

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8 years 5 months ago #1745 by Peter Garsoe
Replied by Peter Garsoe on topic Brewer12.8 Centerboard
we seem to have lots of interest in this topic!!...
several things... my cockpit pennant is attached under the hawse pipe and the board can be retrieved with it... i believe it serves as backup to the main raising pennant...just moving its attachment lower on the board makes it useful... also if it hums it was mentioned that it was a wire pennant... switch to line and that should go away... also if board is difficult to raise i use my main port winch with the dedicated winch as a turning block...
my question is the correct angle of deployment?...i have let it down all the way...90 degrees ...some have mentioned 45 as the correct angle and that seems strange... is the cockpit pennant used to hold it at that angle?...if it is deployed to 90 degrees is it possible the banging i have (only when down) is the board hitting forward of the pin on the trunk slot?... i do like the idea of wedges and had thought of that myself but have not tried it yet...i assume they are only on the aft top edge of the board... i am going to put mine in the slot and try to cover as much of the board width as possible consistent with being able to put the board into the slot ... thanks

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