damage to rubrails

12 years 6 months ago #1050 by Mark Popiel
Crimson Kathryn was hauled out two weeks ago, and the forward travel lift 'strap' damaged the rub rails before anyone noticed. On one side it was crushed and on the other side it rolled a 4 foot section. This was unexpected because this was the third move with this same lift, with no problems before. Really I have two questions on this topic. a) Do you know of a source for this rubrail profile? it looks like a complex set of curves. What type of was used originally? B) If we decide to permanently remove the rubrails in their entirety, what do we lose? I think they would be useful in docking at marinas we have seen in the south, that use posts rather than full finger docks, but that is the only situation that I can think of. What purpose do they serve?

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12 years 6 months ago #1054 by Larry Donaldson
I have had a bit of experience with the rub rail issue as a boat that got loose and damaged ours is a squall while at a marina dock.

If it is the original Whitby factory rub rail it is cut from a teak plank, shaped and then pulled into the hull when through bolted. It is also tapered as it goes forward. Have a good look at the joints in the various pieces, they are quite nice and very functional. It is finished off with a stainless steel cap strip that hides all the through bolt heads. If the damage to yours is midships it requires the removal of the main salon cabinets to get at the through bolt nuts and washers.

As to its use, I have found it usefull, as you have, in those piling docks that you find in large tidal range areas as a protection against the pilings. I also find it good at keeping the fender lines off of the teak cap rail in other docking situations. It also helps in coming along side a fuel dock should the stern get a little too close. Finally I find it usefull as a step up from the dingy when coming along side. It also looks good. To remove it you will have a lot of holes to fill, fair and then you end up with a paint job required for the hull, that could be more expensive than replacing the damaged rub rail.

I hope this answers your questions.

Larry Donaldson
S/V Star Shadow
Whitby 42 Hull #333

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12 years 6 months ago #1055 by Russ and Jane Landry
Greetings from Russ and Jane/Luna crew sitting at anchor off St. Simon Isl. Ga. by Fort Fredricka, I built our rub rail from White Oak slats cut in 1/2" thickness layered 4 thick with apoxy between each screwed layer. Cheap and works great. Wish I had made it a couple layers thicker. For more info. let us know. Russ and Jane on return to Fla. after 5 month summer on Chesapeake. We surrvived an earthquake, hurricane and tropical storm.

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12 years 6 months ago - 12 years 6 months ago #1059 by Derek Keeping
Replied by Derek Keeping on topic Re:damage to rubrails
I have used these Rub Rail Blocks made of 2x4s and carpet for 7 lifts with no damage. You can not always count on the Marine personal that is why I made my own blocks.
I hope this will help you next time.
Last edit: 12 years 6 months ago by Derek Keeping. Reason: no image

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